The Kodak cameras I have talked about recently both have a Jr. counterpart. These Jr. versions used a much cheaper shutter to reduce the selling price. These are simple shutters, they tend to have two shutter speeds and bulb.
Now I keep mentioning Learn Camera Repair for good reason … understanding is, well as Sun Tsu says “If you know neither the enemy nor yourself, you will succumb in every battle.” As you go along in the courses you will have the ability to work on this type shutter.
This is a Kodak Bimat lens with a Dakon shutter.
Like you typical folder, the shutter/lens can be removed by taking off the retaining ring screw from back.
The Kodak Bimat is a three element lens. You can unscrew rear element and put it aside.
For the front focus element you have to remove the hex stop post … you might want to mark the position of the front to align when you screw it back on.
Unscrew front cell
The front plate is held by two screws … then it pull off.
Unscrew middle element.
This plate is held by four screws … note that some are covered by levers. Before removing this, close down the aperture.
The shutter release lever is in a slot, so you will need to slide-tilt-pull the plate to get it out.
Note that there are no escapements as this is a simple shutter with two speeds, B, and T … that are all controlled by a couple of levers.
The large metal retard weight on the bottom is used to smoothen out the movement of the leaf lever as it opens/closes the shutter.
The torsion spring on the right is the main spring.
Ok, here is a visual example of a shutter that has been flushed … yes it can, temporarily, free up gummed blades but as you can see it leaves all the crap sitting around ready to resettle on the blades again.
The aperture sits on top of the shutter blades … which is the first time I have seen this, as typically the shutter is on top.
Pull off aperture control arm … leafs are somewhat attached due to the burst hole that is punched in the diaphram blades to use as a pin. Be very careful not to pull the blades off this ring, as it will damage the metal. If you look carefully at this image you will see that the aperture hole is out of shape … which means one of the blades is not sitting properly. After I took off this ring I could see that the burst hole on one blade was squashed, so it no long fit into the hole properly. I had to peel back the metal around the burst hole (without breaking the metal) and then fit it back into the ring hole.
Just put the whole thing in an ultrasonic to clean it, so you don’t have to put pressure on the blades.
Pull out speed setting lever
(note, in this image I had cleaned up everything and put it back together)
Open shutter blades by pushing leaf post to right.
Now you can lift this out through the back with something tapered.
The blade operating ring has three studs … longest one is also the leaf post, and is on the bottom (which engages the leaf lever).
This plate three large dimples that are used to create a space between the back cover … note when putting it back together the big slot is at 10 oclock
So … diaphram control ring … then aperture blades … then the cover plate dimples down (not shown).
This Old Camera 