Category Archives: Tools

Back to that F-1n needle … solution.

Soooooo, I got everything working on that F-1n except for that sticky needle. I really did not want to take the mirror box out to get at the mechanism as I tried it on my test subject and it is not an easy thing to remove and especially replace.

I figured if I washed out the area it will eventually run free … but every time the Naptha dried out the needle would stick. I figured that it needed some oil to keep the metal parts moving … but that means opening it up !!!

DSC00630Then I remembered a tip that someone told me … put a drop or two of Nyoil in a bath of Naptha. Well I did not have any Nyoil, but I did have some Moebius 8040 watch oil, so I made a bath … then dribbled some into the opening for the diaphragm sensing lever (or the servo port if it isn’t covered).

Some exercise of the lever and stop down switch … and then waited for the solution to dry.

Next day … the lever does not stick !! Thanks Dimitri.

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Working with seals … this ain’t MarineLand, no fish for you!

There is one thing that is common to more modern camera’s is light seal material … something I started encountering when I got into cameras made in the 60’s and 70’s. Older cameras were physically designed to reduce light leaks coming in. Over time as camera design changed they became more susceptible to light entering the film chamber from the film loading door. Manufactures started adding in fabric and foam material to reduce light entry.

Many of the TLR’s I’ve had used simple yarn type material, some wooden cameras use velvet, while the rangefinder cameras added felt and more modern foam material. While the yarn and felt materials survived decades, the foam material they used had a tendency to degrade … becoming brittle or soften with age, and eventually requiring replacement. The Canon QL’s and the Olympus SP that I have written about all required a light seal replacement … ahhhh, I am melting!!!!!

Now, this ain’t a tutorial on how exactly to do this … there are already sooooo many references on the Web about how to do this on many different cameras … I am just going to mention some things to add to what is already out there.

You have a choice of buying material then cutting them to size to fit your camera. This is a more economic way if you have a lot of cameras, but if you just have one camera then you probably can get a pre-cut kit.

There are many types of foam you can source. One thing you will probably see is open and closed cell types. If the cells are open they will allow more air between cells to escape, thus is more flexible … but less durable and may leak light through if it has very large cells. Closed cell is most common if you just look for foam, it is less compressible as it has enclosed air pockets.

I have read many articles from DIY’rs that use things like mouse pads …. as I was a scuba diver and being familiar with Neoprene, I can say that this type of closed cell foam is way too uncompressable for usage in camera seals. Many of the old cameras that I have had used open cell foam. I did find some semi-open cell foam which is kinda in the middle … also there are a number of different materials used to make foam, and that plays a part in its feel.

Milly’s Camera has a nice set of various types of foam for camera seals. Here are a couple links to instructions on replacing seals: Matt’s Classic Cameraspeter_de_waalbikebeerun1960.

If you search the web for pre-cut kits you will probably come across Jon Goodman’s name. Jon started selling kits over a decade ago, and has been the go-to-guy for them. Many people have praised the materials and instructions he provides … though he has disappeared from the Web ( old Classic Camera Repair forum ) and eBay but you can contact him directly via email  JGood21967@aol.com  or  Jon_Goodman@yahoo.com

DIY material:

  • 8 ply black yarn
  • velvet strips or felt
  • open, semi-open, closed cell foam
  • Ronsonol
  • acetone – use with care as it will dissolve plastic
  • bamboo chopsticks – a straw – toothpicks
  • glue – Pliobond
  • and I don’t have to mention Q-tips

Carefully look and feel the original material and try to replicate it.

Draw a map (so you can get back to where you came from), then measure the existing foam before removing.

Removing old foam seal material is a messy thing.

With self adhesive type foam, you can use hand sanitizer or lick the back to delay the adhesive … this is handy if you are putting the thin ones in those slots.

bikebeerrun’s video shows G-S hypo cement … hmm, that precision tip looks very helpful getting glue into tight spots.

Blast from the past …

Just before I started this Blog, while I was working on fixing my first cameras, I discovered a great forum dedicated to people who fixed their own photographic equipment.

board_logo The Classic Camera Repair Forum was created by Kar Yan & Henry on their kyphoto.com site to share information about reviving old cameras.

I found this site while searching for repair manuals. They had some links and their own articles about repairing … but they also created a Forum.

This forum is where I first bumped into Rick Oleson, and many others who contributed information that has helped me over the years.

Sadly the site shut down in 2013. You can view it via WayBack Machine: Kyphoto.com

The archives are also available on the RangeFinder Forum: RFF – Gearheads Delight … you can dig there for lost information … and you will find that the discussions still go on thanks to RFF.

I pity the tool !!!

Sometimes yah just can’t win … many cameras utilized specalized manufacturing techniques to get everything together. When servicing these camera’s, you really should have the tools that were designed to work on these things.

One of them is a flexiclamp/ring wrench, the tool to remove the various retaining rings used on cameras without scratching them.

Some are very specific to a camera … which I just found out about the Canonet QL17 G-III. I encountered difficulty getting into the shutter mechanism because the front lens group put up a fight. Most other cameras of this type that I have worked on just required a spanner wrench or a rubber friction thingy … not this camera.

Screen Shot 2017-11-09 at 7.02.50 PM

This tool is used to work on the front lens group (as noted in the service manual).

I can see why this is needed … the group is screwed on very tightly so friction doesn’t work. A spanner wrench is too wide to fit in the tight space. Even using my super strong stainless steel tweezers didn’t work, even though I could force it wide enough to connect to the slots, I could not get enough grip to prevent it from slipping.

Stop Weining about Hg !!

For anyone collecting/using old cameras you will eventually encounter the battery replacement issue. Starting in 1991/92 there was a restriction on the sale of mercury content in batteries … this lead to the end of all mercury (mercuric-oxide) batteries. Silver-oxide batteries became the best replacement to powering cameras, but this battery used a higher voltage than the 1.35V mercury batteries, which means the older camera meters have to be recalibrated/modified to use them.

WeinCell makes replacements that are of the equivalent voltage … but they ain’t cheap, so here are some alternatives”

The O-ring and Jon Goodman’s 675 adapter are described by Rick Oleson: Cheap Easy Mercury Battery Replacement

same topic by Bruce Varner, here: http://brucevarner.com/PX625Replacement.html

… and here is another discussion: Mercury-Oxyde Battery Problem